The Favorites. (SS13)

As my Current Designers class comes to an end, we are assigned our final project. For the given assignment, we are being asked to choose five designers from the array of designers we discussed in class, all ranging from American, Italian, French, British, Avant Garde, emerging designers and reemerging ones. Of all these categories, I have been able to narrow it down to my top five for this assignment. Tough it has been. I sincerely mean that. So without further ado, let's get started. The order in which I will be discussing the designer's Spring/Summer 2013 collections is in order from my favorite being the first, and so forth. However, these are all my top favorites of the many covered!




 1.Jason Wu

First off is my most favorite collection we saw, Jason Wu. I had never really looked at his collections before, but this one really caught my eye and pleased me from the get go. I find it to be the perfect mix of lovely femininity and sex appeal. The light, sheer, and lacey fabrics mixed with black leather, harness-like straps and open backs, oh my. All that is what I feel compiles to this incredibly sexy feel in this collection without it looking ungraceful or provocative. And I am all for that! The colors most seen is black and white, and we get some coral, nude and navy in the mix. The silhouettes I feel were very classic with a contemporary edge. We get form-fitting cigarette pants, high-waisted shorts, a tight top with revealed backs, and midriffs. This collection totally gives me the vibe of a wealthy, young and trendy business woman on vacation. The fitted and tailored pants, button ups, and almost knee length skirts for work; swimwear, cocktail dresses, and evening gowns. I'd love to be that traveling gal! I couldn't think of a more perfect collection, it has a look for almost any scene. I love how it is also rather wearable for someone how wants to play safe, and also has other pieces for those who like to dress on the edge. Very well done job to the young Mr. Wu ! I really can't wait to see more.

2. Altuzarra

Altuzarra came in as my second favorite, I am just absolutely in love
with every thing about it. From the shoes to the embroidery! I also
feel like this collection is one that is quite wearable, which is another reason why I like it. Form, function and fashion! I had never been familiar with Altuzarra prior to this class, but it only took one collection to really get me hooked, and this one is just pure class, beauty and a little something. The color palette ranges from neutrals like brown, cream, gray and black, we get royal blue, baby blue, olive and gold. That is yet another reason why I loved this collection, it's one of the few that actually have some color for spring! The fabrics are just amazing, we have some pin-stripes, a lot of embroidery, texture, and volume. The silhouette was more relaxed, loose, long and a little layered. The evening wear was just icing on the cake, exquisite. I am so fond with the idea of how he made the dresses look like it was an extremely long, beautifully embroidered scarf turned into a dress. I also am particularly so proud of the fact that he stated those "scarf" dresses that look like somewhat of a hassle to put on, just have on simple zipper in the back and you're out! Again, FORM, FUNCTION AND FASHION. Another thing I adore in fashion is practicality. And his cape/coat is very practical! It has sleeves for when the chilly weather comes around, but also openings on the side for the more warmer vibe. Love love love. And I cannot end this without mentioning the shoes. The knee high gladiator sandal heels are to die for! They will add edge to any outfit, as we can see with them paired with more business casual apparel, and they are just going to be the hottest things for spring! I've been catching them on many runways for SS13 and I feel like they will never really fade. Overall, I rate this collection as perfection.

3. Balenciaga

Up next we have Balenciaga, and the last we will see of Nicolas at the house. I've chosen this collection for a little bit more reason than the previous and rest. I've personally been fond of Balenciaga for some time, so it wasn't new to me like the rest, and since it is the last of Nicolas designing for the house; whose work I love, of course I'm going to include it. Regardless of those facts, I really did like the collection a whole lot! I love the variety we see here through various ways, such as a lot of the bare midriff, high-waisted pants, long and loose suits, cropped tops, ruffles, slits, boxy mini-skirts and a little lace and what looks like to be tweed, but is not! I get somewhat of an old school vibe from these outfits and silhouettes. The silhouette is long and short, as well as boxy and fitted. We get a mixture of all. In the short end is the boxy-mini skirts and cropped tops, and the longer end is the pants, blazers and ruffle skirts. It's all a great mixture of masculine and feminine appeal. The color story of this is basic and plain like the accessorizing. We get black, white, beige, gray, baby blue, and hints of navy, red and a pastel yellow. The fabrics range from what looks like to be tweed but is actually embroidery, some lace, and the rest are rather stiff and structured fabrics. I think this collection was all in all a nice tribute to classic Balenciaga, as well as the best farewell from Mr. Ghesquière for staying true to the house for so long. Round of applause and forever appraised!

  
4. Gareth Pugh 

 Next aboard is a now new-found favorite, Gareth Pugh. Seeing this collection, I instantly liked him. I immediately started looking at his past collections to see what he was about. To my surprise, the rest didn't seem as wearable as this one does. If you solely look at just the garments and not sometimes gaudy accessories and over-the-top makeup, you have a beautiful piece. I chose this collection because I loved the simplicity of it, but the extra design on these rather simple pieces, did it all. The fringe, knits, ruffles, leather, and high necklines were exquisite aesthetic. This collection I also find to be rather easy to wear, it's one colored pieces and the separates are not over the top. The colors in this collection are black, white, light gray and red. I love that he kept it so simple and basic because then do you really pay attention to design and aesthetic. The fabrics are fabulous mix of leather, knit, and what looks like to be jacquard and some satin, but in the smallest amount not taking away from anything. The silhouette is very long and somewhat wide, with the trumpet pants, capes, and what looks like bell bottoms on our sleeves. I just think this collection is absolutely stunning in a more muted way, but in no way is that negative. My favorite piece is the dress with the fringe along the sleeves to the back, so perfect. Shoes? PERFECT.

5. Mulberry

 

 Last but definitely not least is Mulberry. Mulberry was not a new name for me to hear about in class, but I never really paid attention to their clothing. Hence the reason we learned about is as a reemerging brand. If anything, I was only familiar with their handbags, what they were most popular for. However, I was clearly really pleased with their collection for spring. It somewhat takes me back to the seventies with the retro makeup and ditzy floral print in come of their pieces. Another reason why I just loved it is because it's another of the few that actually showcase spring colors in their clothing! How nice is that. The lovely color story of this collection contains mustard yellow, cream, pastel orange, bright orange, mint green, white, black, navy and some nudes. Again, many of those browns and oranges taking me to a seventies era. The fabrics were also just as spring-y as the colors, we see a floral jacquard in different patters, fabrics and colors. We also get a few light, thin and flowy fabrics like lace, and these awesome flared pants in leather, other pieces in leather being some small coats. The silhouette is long, loose and rather wide. I just find the collection to be a masterpiece of spring.

So there it is, my tops for Spring/Summer 13 out of our covered designers in class. Until next season!

Images via Style.com and Nowfashion

Fast Fashions & Ethics.

During my Current Designer's class last week we discussed the ethical & environmental issues behind not solely fast fashion retailers, but even with the world's biggest designer brand names. However for this assignment, I'll be focusing on fast fashion because we did make a trip to our local H&M & Uniqlo retailers to look further into the little details that cause such big problems.


First Stop: H&M

  Our first location we visited was H&M. We walked to the first floor and the first things I started to examine and squeal over a little bit was the Maison Martin Margiela capsule collection. I have my problems with the collection, I'd never buy into it; but we can all admit there are pieces in the store that are indeed very trendy and appealing. The current clothing at H&M feature a quite straight, slim and rather boxy silhouette. Of course because it is a fast fashion retailer it has many other silhouettes, but for the most part they are all quite form-fitting pieces, and an occasional peplum and a-line skirt is seen. The colors are ranging from neutrals, silver, black, sapphire blues, forest and emerald greens, and burgundy. All a very wintery appropriate color scheme. The fabrics used in this clothing are all an array of polyester, viscose, some silk, acrylic, wool and cotton. For the most part, polyester and cotton are the fabrics being used the most. Most of these garments are being produced in Asia, Korea & Cambodia, being some of the most seen countries on those black tags. The quality of the garments, for the price they are, is good. Isn't that why they have expanded immensely and are so successful? Sure. You pay a low price for a low end fabric, but the cost of production for those puppies are even lower. However, from this recent trip and seeing the H&M x MMM collection pieces, for the H&M customer, I believe that the price point of that collection was just ridiculously high for that consumer. Not to mention, I don't think it would be worth it. Sure you get a trendy and cool piece with a designer name slapped right on it, but you're not getting a piece that is timeless, will last a long time, and actually took some time to make. You get what you pay for. In that instance, the Maison Martin Margiela name. I'm not gonna sit here and say I don't shop at H&M because I do occasionally, but a lot of times you might what to consider it and ask yourself if it is truly worth it.


















Next Stop: Uniqlo

 

Our next and final destination was Uniqlo. I had already previously visited this store to check it out when it had recently opened here in San Francisco. The style of the merchandise in this retailer is not one I like, but I really am fond of the visual displays and set up of the store. The colors in the clothing at the store are practically every color in the rainbow and your regular neutrals. They have jackets and leggings in every color of the rainbow. Fabrics range from nylon, polyester, wool, faux fur, feathers, cashmere and cotton. The silhouette at Uniqlo I would say is definitely more relaxed, long, and straight. A lot of it is sportswear and really no formal wear besides the few basic dresses and button ups they carry. Definitely a casual wear destination. The garments are produced in China, surprise surprise. Despite the styles of the garments, I'd say the quality looks and seems to be a bit better than that of H&M's. The stitching, weight and feel of them make me feel that way. I feel like this store is very similar to Old Navy or Gap, so if you are a fan of either of those stores, consider making a trip to Uniqlo!

Final Stop: Ethics.

Now comes all the problems and opinions on the manufacturing of the clothing from these fast fashion retailers. Like the article "Making The Case Against Fast Fashion Collaborations" by "Guest Contributor" on www.businessoffashion.com states, is this clothing really fashion? They say no, it's decent clothing sold at affordable prices. And that is true. There are many environmental issues going on with even the types of dyes being used on these fabrics because they contain very hazardous chemicals that are even hormone disrupting and cancer causing, as an article from the same webpage called "Toxic Chemicals in Clothing Make All of Us Fashion Victims" states. Obviously this is not okay because we live in the world where this is happening now, what about the generations to come? How will their world be like? Some companies have already pledged to have more sustainable procedures with some of their manufacturing and there are ways to slowly start changing the procedures these companies decide to use. It won't happen over-night or in 5-10 years, but we can get there. I personally am saddened by the toxic waste being spread from some of the chemicals in our clothing, the billions of gallons of water used to make pairs of jeans, the horrible labor conditions in factories across seas, but what can one really do? I can decide to no longer purchase from there, but at the end of the day, thousands and thousands of people will continue to shop at these places every weekend. I think it should be more upon the companies to change their ways. As far as fast fashion collaborations go, I'm rather neutral about it. I don't see too much wrong with it as far as ethics go, but I've never wanted to buy from any, nor have I. I'd rather save myself some money and buy the real deal, I know I'd get my money's worth out of it. The way I see it, all big businesses have big problems.


Works Cited:
Images via Google and H&M 
Articles via http://www.businessoffashion.com/

Runway to Retail.

For my Current Designers course I am currently taking this fall quarter, we went on a little field trip to the local Neiman Marcus & Barney's New York to look at some of the commercial merchandise by designer's we've covered in class for their S/S13 runway collections. The goal was to compare & contrast the palettes, prints, fabrics and silhouettes from the runway to the retailer. 

Stop 1: Neiman Marcus

Marni

 

(Disclaimer: Not actual display at Neiman Marcus. Example.)

One of the first designers we took a look at was Marni. Marni had a very delightful and fun display and decoration for their in-store shop at Neiman Marcus. Like the above rack, is the type of racks they were using. That is not the current rack, it's an example I found because no photography is allowed. From what I saw of Marni, the visual aesthetics of the shop to begin with I feel go really well with the quirky and artsy vibe the brand is known for. The clothing was very wearable too. For being commercial pieces, I felt they were wearable yet still very upbeat and a good representation of what Marni shows on the runway. Since it is the fall/winter apparel, I saw browns, whites, blacks, royal blues, red-oranges, forest greens, rusty orange and grays for the color palette. In prints I saw stripes, leaves, and large floral print. Fabrics we see crepe, jacquard, satin, leather, flannel, some furs like fox and mink, and a little embroidery and embellishment on some clothing. The silhouette is somewhat relaxed, sort of boxy and loose, a few asymmetric cuts here and there. Overall, I'm not a Marni fan but I did really like everything and I feel it is a very appropriate brand for San Francisco natives.

Gucci

The collection of the fall/winter season of Gucci is one that I really like and I feel also does represent the brand well. Many of the pieces are very San Francisco woman style, and many still give that sexy but classy vibe we get off watching their collections grace the runway. I actually noticed a few similar styles on some of the clothing in store now to that of their runway. There was long wide and flowy sleeves and some slits. Of course the color story of this to their SS13 collection is very different cause of the season, but I got the same vibe I did from them off their runway. The collection is still sensuous and fashion forward, but wearable of course. The color palette of this collection is black, white, maroon, gold, brown, cream, grays, and a little reds, pink, and yellow, like the fabulous colors we saw in their SS13 collection but more subtle and muted. For fabrics we have jacquard, jersey, satin, silk, georgette, knits, suede, chiffon, tulle, velvet, and just about almost anything! In prints, we see floral with tiger, leopard and the rest are plain. The silhouettes we see a lot of high-waist, some body-con, a few relaxed fits, and emphasis on the neck and shoulder area with wide sleeves, embellishing, turtle necks or slits.

Stop 2: Barneys New York

Rodarte

One of the designers I was most surprised with seeing at the Barneys store was Rodarte. I felt like it was the most different out of all the designers from the looks I saw on the runway compared to the commercial looks at the retailer; regardless of it being different seasons. Rodarte's spring collection was very bold, edgy and daring. What I saw of their fall clothing didn't come off that way. Since we couldn't take any images, this was the only image on their website provided. You can already see it is definitely a more classic silhouette and bland colors, a safe choice. The color palette consisted of black, browns, tan, maroon, pale greens and oranges. For prints I saw florals again, dots, stripes, and other geometrical like lines. Fabrics there is jacquard, leather, and chiffon. The silhouettes are quite retro and somewhat form-fitting, in the waist and hip areas.






Proenza Schouler
Last but not least, I'll be talking about Proenza Schouler's clothing at Barneys. This is one brand I actually also felt lived up well to what the brand is and debuts on 
the runways. The fabrics, colors and patterns were very much the brand; edgy, cool and rather daring. The silhouettes were a but more traditional though. I felt like these commercial silhouettes of the clothing, some, were rather matronly compared to what we see on the runway from them. So for the in-store and online pieces from their Winter/Fall collection for the color palette we have black, white, red, olive, blues, aquamarine, green, and oranges. In prints it varies quite well with tie dye, some graphics, japanese print, stripes, and small squared and geometric shapes. For their fabric story, there is wovens, tweed, jacquard, and georgette. The silhouettes are not form-fitting whatsoever but not loose either. Just relaxed and it ranges in lengths from the jeans to the shorts to the skirts and dresses. 

(All images via Barneys New York and Neiman Marcus)